Phu Quoc International Airport Opening

My design project has finally come alive! Walking in it on the opening day was beyond exhilarating!

Varanasi

of Ghats, Ganges and Gratitude.

India (part 1).
17 - 21 November 2012.

2 meetups, 4 pseudo-indian names and 5 injections (each) later, we are finally on our way to India.

I'll start with how we gave ourselves pseudo-indian names to put us in the mood for planning our trip. Rayvees had earlier started signing off his emails with Ravi Govindransamy (Rayvees Goh) and i followed suit over the next couple of emails with Sumeetha Lengali (Su Leng). My friends laughed and said my name sounded like i belonged to the lowest caste of indians. We had Anita Tanvir for Anng Tan (sounds like some distinguished indian literary personality!). Teik Guan we had a hard time and eventually settled on Thevan Gunalan, but i think he has since changed Gunalan to something else cos he didn't want to sound like the village idiot ha ha ;P

North India was truly colourful, so rich in textures and so much to absorb by all the senses, i think i'm going to do it injustice with my limited vocab to express all that i felt throughout the trip but thank goodness my travel buddies are talented photographers who by a few seemingly-random clicks of the shutter, manage to frame me nicely in the numerous archways of the gorgeous indian forts; make me look like a bollywood star with backup dancers in front of the majestic Taj Mahal; look pretty standing amidst a herd of sacred cows (and cow dung), and better still look the part of a rich heiress roaming about the floating palace compounds as if my own.

Our 12 days in brief: Fly in to Delhi from Singapore (Thevan & Sumeetha); from HK a day before (Ravi & Anita), domestic flight to Varanasi, overnight train to Agra, drive to Jaipur, Jodhpur and Udaipur, and another domestic flight back to Delhi, with some help from a local travel agent who booked our flights, train and drivers to suit our travel itinerary.

Saturday 17 Nov

Arrival at Indira Ghandi International Airport in Delhi just after noon (Air India AI381, Dep Singapore 0915, Arrive Delhi 12.30), where we had some 3 plus hours to kill at the airport before meeting up with Ravi and Anita for our domestic flight to Varanasi  late afternoon. 

A disappointing non-indian first meal at Costas at the airport, cos there wasn't much selection. 

Hanging out at the Terminal Kerbside waiting for our shuttle to the Domestic Terminal.

Outside the Domestic Terminal before meeting up with Ravi and Anita. We had to show proof of our flights like air tickets or e-tickets before we were allowed to enter the departure hall.  

Just before climbing onboard SpiceJet, one of India's several domestic airlines. (SG 127, Dep Delhi 1745, Arr Varanasi 1910)

Dusk arrival into Varanasi.

We were picked up at the airport by our driver, who had company we weren't sure we welcomed cos he talked non-stop and started giving us his life history and education status in between highlighting festivals to us. We initially warmed up to his friendliness, engaging in conversation and truly enjoying how friendly Indians were. And then halfway through the incessant talking and even though none of us said it, i sensed we were each beginning to feel uneasy like was there any catch to this fella. I'm pretty sure our hotel said they were sending a driver not a tour guide and our driver, he just drove and didn't utter a sound. So when we arrived at our hotel he hustled for us to meet him outside the hotel alleyway the next day and offered to take us around town free of charge. What a nice guy. We hemmed and hawed not wanting to appear rude, after all he was pretty friendly throughout. We gave him a non-committal response and he seemed pretty cool with that.

I am remembering the darkness and narrow streets along the journey and the uneveness of the concrete steps and alleyway where our driver dropped us just steps from our hotel (hotels are commonly known as haveli here) and recalling with much fondness our delight as we were shown the way into a lovely intimate courtyard setting with a mini 2-man live band playing a blend of exotic ethnic music.

Our first accommodation in India - Suryauday Haveli. Smiling staff welcomed us and put beige coloured sashes around each of us and dotted our foreheads with red colouring, a customary indian greeting i suppose.

And then we had an awesome indian dinner spread, just like how i imagined it. Assorted curries and dips to go with my favourite naans and breads. Mm-mmm i'm loving India already!

Teik was totally enamored by the bathroom mirror ha ha.

Sunday 18 Nov

Varanasi is India's holiest and oldest inhabited city and resides on the banks of the Ganges River. Hindus believe that the surest way to eternal freedom from the cycle or birth and death is to come to Varanasi to die. Some come to be healed from sickness and sin by washing themselves in the spiritual waters of the Ganges River, while others carry the dead to be cremated by the river.

We awoke really early, like 5am for a sunrise boat ride on the Ganges River. The low light and chill breeze added to the dreamlike atmosphere of embarking on a boat ride floating downstream this spiritual river.

A young boy came up to us, advising us to buy some candle-lit flower offerings to place on the river surface for good karma, which we obediently did, to add to the spirit of being here.

Our boatman was this old white-haired guy who looked rather fierce and hardly spoke a word. His outfit reminds me of the clothes jedis wore in Star Wars.

Watching the sunrise over the river in Varanasi which was a beautiful moment. The entire city faces east, which made the river boat ride perfect for watching sunrises. It is also symbolic as the city resides on the west, the side of the setting sun, symbolising death, while it faces east where the sun rises symbolising rebirth or new life.

Hindus bathing in the Ganges River. I wonder if they do this everyday or only on significant dates of the year as a form of spiritual cleansing, especially those covered from head to toe with soapsuds. These to me look like they were purely taking a bath in the river waters but what do i know.

Some prefer to do yoga and meditate.

The sunrise cast a warm orangy glow onto the city and its people.

Fortunate are the people who reside on the banks of ganga. The Ganges River is also known as Ganga, and is the most sacred river to Hindus.

Other activities along the banks of ganga include playtime for dogs, personal grooming, and drying laundry.

Back at our hotel, Suryauday Haveli, which is located at Shivala Ghat. Teik's yellow t-shirt matches the signage. After a while, we were beginning to familiarise ourselves with some of the more popular ghat names. I don't know about the others but for some reason Munshi Ghat keeps coming to mind.

Young friendly boy asks for a picture first, then money after. Which we did not give, having read up on travel dos and don'ts before we came.

From the river bank there was this tunneled flight of steps that rise up to the hotel courtyard and reception. This is because the water level from the river rises some 12m high (if i recall correctly) during certain monsoon seasons.

Exploring the rooftops, corridors and courtyard of our haveli after coming back from our morning boat ride on the Ganges River before heading out on foot to explore the old city.

Goats and kids were a common sight. Kids too. I mean, goats and kids, the young of goats, and kids as in children too.

Dogs played in packs of 4 or 5 usually, sometimes running around, sometimes sleeping in the sun.

Colourful laundry hanging out to dry.

Somewhere here a random indian guy came up to me and Anita and said i looked indian.

Sleeping dog on one of the ghats along the river bank. Ghats are a series of steps leading down to the river, usually to a spiritual river.

Group of young boys in orange garb, i'm not sure if they are in some sort of training to be a sadhu, which is a holy man.

Venturing into the old city streets of Varanasi felt like we were being transported into another era, another world. Tourists were few and the people went about their daily lives, most of them ignoring the intruding tourists like ourselves, whereas some appeared unfriendly and waved their arms saying "no photo, no photo". It's strange what tourism does to our world. And Varanasi was the first place i truly felt like i was intruder, disrupting the harmony of the mundane atmosphere of the local community, getting in their way, appearing out of place with our flashy cameras and funky footwear. I liked being here and absorbing the colours, textures, sounds and even smells but at the same time i wanted to be liked being here. I didn't want the locals to be upset with us, for coming and going like nosy busybodies, taking and not giving, and having no good reason whatsoever to be mingling in their midst.

You have to watch where you tread cos once every few steps you might come across various degrees of dried/ drying-out cow dung, and you don't really want to put your foot in it.

Even though the colour of my top almost matches the walls along the narrow busy streets, my sunglasses atop my head, camera hung from my neck, watch, shoes couldn't blend me and my friends into the crowd.

Like my brick-coloured sheer top, Thevan's yellow t-shirt seems to resonate with the colours of Varanasi's canvas shelters and women's saris.

Indian kacang puteh seller. Not me lah, the guy behind the bags of kacang.

Cows were sacred animals in India and they went wherever humans went, roaming about the narrow streets and making no effort whatsoever to move away from the paths of humans. 

Posing with sleeping cows. I was a little skeptical about going too near.

Thevan and Ravi consider having their hair cut in this Gents Beauty Parlour.

Thevan looking pleased with his last photograph.

A young puppy wanders dangerously amidst the footsteps of passers-by.

Thevan and Ravi trying their best to fit in.

I love Ravi's photos of Thevan and I walking down this street, with the sunlight casting a glow on our silhouettes.

Striking colours abound.

This old lady's pose holding onto the grille gate seemed like a photo opportunity, only we weren't sure how she'd react to us photographing her. Sometimes we take a quick snap and move on, other times we forgo the opportunity in order to keep the peace. And once or twice, we steal a few more shots, encouraged by a smile or two from the subject, just to get that perfect photo.

If you look closely, there are two cows in the exact same pose in this picture. I'm quite lucky.

A hungry stray looks into a cafe with hopeful eyes.

Rubbish swept into neat piles by the side of the narrow streets were a common sight.

We took a breather at this cafe run by a young Japanese lady who spoke no english and handed us the menu and a writing pad, gesturing us to write down our orders on the paper. I am very curious what circumstances led to her coming to a place like Varanasi to set up a cafe.

Happy kiddo basking in the sunlight.

Walking alongside cows. 

You never know when they might suddenly wish to make an about-turn.

Look how tiny this kiddo is. And those nikes belong to Thevan and Anita.

We hung around to watch how five men tried to rescue a cow stuck in the muddy banks of the Ganges River. They succeeded in freeing it after 15 minutes yay!

At night, it was another boat ride courtesy of the hotel to take us to Dashashwamedha Ghat, one of the ghats and also possibly the most spectacular ghat, for the evening Ganga Aarti, a ritual that starts around 5pm in the evening, that is watched by tourists sitting in their boats on the Ganges River.

Pizzeria Vaatika had really good reviews so we decided to hunt down this place for dinner. Turns out it's located at Assi Ghat, just a couple of ghats away from the ghat our hotel was located at. Their apple pie with ice-cream is a must-have!

Pizzeria Vaatika

B-1/178, Assi Ghat, Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh

Shivala, Varanasi, UP
+91 98 38 094111

Our first night in Varanasi after a fulfilling day of boat rides, rituals and old city sights.

Monday 19 Nov

Today we were taking a mini day trip to a place where Buddha gave his first sermon. Sarnath is approximately 10km away from Varanasi and we had a driver take us there.

Buddhist devotees making their rounds around the Dhamekh Stupa at Sarnath.

My friends trying meditation poses in the foreground of the Dhamekh Stupa.

Seems like a sermon is being preached under the shade this morning.

Another group of Buddhist devotees in brown arriving at Sarnath and making their rounds here. 

Group picture at the foot of the stupa.

Had to use the bathroom and there was a dead fish on the floor as we came out of the female toilet.

The gardens at Sarnath were very well maintained and seemed like a rather pleasant place for meditation and retreats.

Then it was back at Varanasi late afternoon to explore the back alleys of the other ghats.

Mother and calf galloping down an alley. So cute!

The coloured walls in Varanasi are simply delightful.

Afternoon siesta at this rooftop cafe. The vegetable pakoras were quite yummy. But nothing beats the fresh juices to quench our thirst.

Leisure afternoon activities along the ghats. Men playing cards and women were starting to bring lighted offerings down to the river bank.

As evening fell, more and more womenfolk were bringing offerings down to the river and we soon realised it was to bless their children.

These two schoolgirls were tourists in Varanasi and we started a friendly conversation with them and their family. The girls were shy at first but in between whispering and giggling they mentioned they liked collecting foreign coins so i dug up what i had which wasn't much and their faces lit up and they excitedly showed the coins to their parents. I was delighted that a few coins made them this happy. Note to self: bring loose change of Singapore coins along next travel.

Beauty and hair parlours were such a cute sight in Varanasi somehow. I think it's to do with the bright colours and striking English fonts.

Teik's shirt totally matches the flavour of this particular parlour.

The sights and sounds of Varanasi at night were so captivating and charming. We squeezed through the narrow streets bustling with people and activity and feasted our eyes on all the colours, textures, smells and sounds each of the different shops had to offer. Some where selling fabrics, some stationery, others dried food and yet others, piping hot cooked food. I try my best to capture all of that in the pictures that follow.

This sadhu or holy man had an extremely peaceful demeanor and warmly gestured to us that it was totally fine to take his picture. He even smiled for us. Behind those green grilles were a basket of cute sleeping puppies that he had been caring for i suppose.

Big fat cow gets in the way.

Having been charmed enough by the Varanasi streets we found ourselves back at the ghats where hundreds of groups of people had gathered. Making our way through the crowds, we were constantly bombarded by little children who kept volunteering to pose for pictures upon seeing our cameras. We allowed ourselves to be entertained by them, but after the fiftieth kid we somehow had to take a stand and politely but firmly turn them down,which wasn't very easy to do, considering how they were just kids fascinated by pictures of themselves on digital screens and dreaming of becoming superstars one day, for a handful of them.

Turns out there was this huge festival in the early morning and families from all over India were gathered on the banks of Ganga, putting up huge fabric umbrellas and large sleeping mats along almost the entire stretch of the river bank. It was very festive and they were chatting loudly, eating, setting up ritual offerings in place. Later into the night, we passed several who had started to wrap blankets around themselves in a bid to catch some shut-eye before the big festival in the early morning. 

I woke up several times that night towards the early morning probably starting around 4am, then 5am and 6am and peeked out the strip of window from our hotel room to witness the lively commotion that didn't seem to cease from last night.

Tuesday 20 November

It is our final day in Varanasi and we thought we'd do another sunrise boat ride this morning, except that the sun had already risen. By this time, most of the crowd had dispersed all that's left were remnants of offerings and the lingering atmosphere of last night's festivities, still vivid in our minds. 

Our boatman pulling upshore. This time he was a young chap introduced to us by our previous boatman, the old guy who dressed like a jedi. He was a bit more chatty and allowed Ravi and Thevan to take turns rowing the boat.

It was a rather nice relaxing morning out on the boat.

It seems the ghats were constantly filled with people and activity every day, festival or no festival. Elsewhere the activity level was much lower, where sleeping dogs bask in the noon sun, feeling too hot to do anything else.

We were feeling rather hot and sleepy ourselves, so we went back to the same cafe for some cold drinks and a bit of lunch and our favourite apple pie with ice-cream. It was the best!

After lunch we took a drive out into town and walked the streets, passing schoolchildren outside the school gates, a cow, some children who loved posing for us, a family of goats and other familiar town scenes, like rickshaws and tuk-tuks.

Thought Thevan caught a nice moment in time in this picture with the rickshaw man looking straight at his camera!

Back at the hotel just before checking out, i take a few pictures of the charming furniture that i really liked.

Then it was off to the Varanasi train station for our overnight sleeper train to Agra! We heard and read so many nightmare stories about trains in India so we weren't sure what to expect, especially when there wasn't a first class train to choose on this sector. So here's the train we took:

Varanasi (BSB) - Agra Fort (AF)
Marudhar Express/14863
Travel Time: 11h 40m    10 halts    Distance: 609 km    Avg Speed: 52 km/hr
Type: Mail/Express
Departs @ 18:15 Varanasi Junction/BSB
Arrives @ 05:55 +1 night Agra Fort/AF

We were a bit nervous getting to the train station as we still had two waitlisted tickets but we were told we could try our luck at the train station to get seats on the train and the chances are usually quite high. It involved enquiring at the station office where there were several tourist-types sitting around with their backpacks. I think we were told to come back in half an hour or something. Eventually i think we were supposed to check if our names were on the list as the train pulls into the platforms. So here is our train, and thank goodness we managed to get 2 seats on top of our 2 sleeper beds for our overnight train.

Our train ride was totally pleasant and Anita and I were feeling very happy with our sleeper bunk, which we shared with a young japanese couple who were also travelling around India. They got off before we did and we never saw them again. We could hear Ravi and Thevan chatting with a middle-aged man in the next cabin and later on, they managed to each get their own sleeper bed for the night. 

Super early morning arrival into Agra Fort where a local guide will be picking us up and driving us to the Taj Mahal.

next: Agra-Jaipur